There was a mountain lion sighting early this morning. No food inside.
More concerned about petty thievery.
There will be dew.
Ok, after several hours, put the window back in. Let it bond while the window is up. Not going to open it until Monday. So no worries about mountain lions or raccoons taking up residence.
Meanwhile, i have a new arm and motor.
Last time i did this the arm was messed up.
On my last OEM tires, I got something close to 40,000 miles when I replaced them.
My replacement tires are down to 4/32 at about 18K miles. Since they have to be replaced at 2/32, I’m guessing I should get 22-25k miles out of them. That’s disappointing. They are Michelin Pilot Sport All Season. Might need to switch it up
Interesting, my OEM tires lasted about 22K and I replaced them with those Michelins. No help on what was on there previously. Did your driving habits change? Highway miles are a lot easier on tires and very few of my miles come from there.
Doubtful the mileage distribution changed much, but perhaps a little.
The first 2 years on the OEM’s racked up the majority of mileage commuting. Much of AM drive was at highway speeds, PM drive often stop and go.
Rest of time on both OEM’s and replacements: most trips are local, but a pretty good share of the mileage is on road trips at highway speeds.
Same driver, same driving style.
If you have the Pilot Sport 4s, it seems they have a treadwear rating of 300. And I know that isn’t a guarantee but usually treadwear is a decent indicator, and 300 is on the lower end, so 22k-25k feels roughly right.
I ran Bridgestone RE050 a few times, they had like a 200 treadwear rating and lasted less than 20k miles.
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I might go for the Pirelli P Zero AS Plus 3 this time. They have a better treadwear rating and overall rating than those Michelins on Tire Rack.
Pirelli trounced the field in this category on Tire Rack’s test: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=334
Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06 Plus also look like a good option.
Those were my second choice. I thought the warranties were something like 40kv45k.
It will take me 5-6 years to wear them out unless my habits change. They should really be replaced around that age anyway.
I replaced the OEMs with P Zeros on my last car and they still had some life left around 35K while the OEMs again only lasted about 18-20k.
What kinda car?
I love shopping for tires.
Tirerack.com has tons of useful information about tire comparisons, ratings, reviews, options, etc.
Those Michelin’s are run flat tires with 30,000 mile warranty, as far as I can tell. It seems that you got only a little less than the warranty. You might argue the point where you bought the tires.
Now, your opinions and needs might vary from my own, but here is what I look for.
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Winter performance (specifically the 3 peak symbol). Where I live, we get snow in the winter and 100* days in the summer. I need true all season performance.
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I will NOT buy low-rolling resistance tires. These tires are made with harder rubber and get better gas mileage at the expense of worse performance in wet, snowy, or icy conditions.
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Higher speed ratings & load ratings are just better tires.
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For other info, check out the tire rack reviews and recommendations
We sometimes get a bit of winter here, but not too much. Some people stick with summer tires only here, but I like all season. I am shopping ultra high performance all seasons. I posted a link to the latest category review from tire rack above.
Like you suggest, this category will not be the very high mileage type as it prioritizes traction and handling over mileage.
Mom took her Ford Edge in for tire rotation. Shop wouldn’t rotate tires since the tires were made in 2016. She put about 100K miles on them since then. Still has at least 6mm tread depth. Not exactly the little old lady from Pasadena!
This may end up being a nothing burger but if a car company could get away with it, there’s incentive to inflate odometer readings so that cars fall out of warranty, service agreements etc. sooner. I might have to check mine every now and then.
https://electrek.co/2025/04/18/tesla-odometergate-dieselgate-or-nothing-burger/
My take is nothingburger, given the problem of reconciling location data with fraudulent mileage data. It’s not like they invested a ton in repair facilities anyway.
So, I did a one-fill-up study, trying to keep my top speed below 70, to see what the increase in MPG might be.
I gained 2 MPG from 23 MPG to 25 MPG. On 12 gallons, I save about a gallon. Over three weeks or so. A little less than $5. Over a year, that’s less than $85.
I think I’ll go back to my normal self, leave the hypermiling to my wife’s boring hybrid.
Gas prices are way more in Newfoundland than the U.S. however, I spend ~$1200 a year on gas. I don’t spend a lot of time at all thinking about it.
My last ICE car was a BMW 335i, I was spending about $140/mo on fuel (in the US) and that was part of why I bought a Chevy Volt. That and the BMW was not cheap to maintain and repair.
Now that I’m on a ‘time of use’ electricity plan, I set my Tesla to charge overnight. Granted, I only drive 5k miles per year, but it now costs me about $60/year to charge my car. It’s $0.03/kWh overnight, damn near free.
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(green – no, me, with jealousy!)
Q: how often do you “top it off”? I mean, your usage converts to roughly every other week of 20% to 80% charging. And if you’re planning a longer trip, obviously that night before.
Most EV folks say ABC: always be charging. The car uses a little juice when it’s off, and my understanding is it’s better to get that from the grid than to cycle the battery. However, it’s a pretty small difference, I typically lose <1% charge per day when it’s sitting. What I haven’t seen discussed is that a 50% SOC is where the battery is least stressed - maybe not exactly 50% but something like that. So I wonder if leaving it off the charger at 70% might actually be better than topping it to 80% every night. I think the difference is pretty academic, based on my not-so-thorough understanding of the battery chemistry.
So I plug it in most nights, but if I forget I don’t worry about it.
Changed a headlight tonight. Took less than 10 minutes. Ive had practice i guess
I don’t understand the bug up the butt about start/stop tech. It’s just automatic hypermile-ing, innit? The first time I realized my old car had it, once I discovered that I did not, in fact, break the car’s engine like I first thought, I was like, oh, a feature that hypermiles for me? 
Cool.
I think my current car technically has it too, although being a hybrid it mainly mainfests as just switching back and forth to/from EV mode.