One point made in the article was the energy used is relatively low, which will help with cost, as well as a high degree of recovery of critical metals.
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And according to people on Reddit, Chevy is actually delivering cars around $35k. You often see manufacturers start by churning out the most expensive models only, but here it seems that GM is actually building these things.
Tbf, the higher cost blazer was out first, and last year the equinox only had higher trim levels, so they did front the higher dollar vehicles. Can’t blame them for harvesting economic value from consumers’ utility curves.
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Just upgraded to a 24 Tucson Hybrid 
“blue” trim level (base level) but it’s Hyundai so it’s still semi-loaded. I was expecting to come home to an angry mob of locals: “Git yer Democrat car out of our MAGA town, traitor!”
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My co-worker has one and really likes it.
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I looked at my electric bill for September. It turns out for “RS Residential Winter” rate (Sep-Apr) I am only paying 9.4 cents per Kwh. After returning from Kansas City it was not a very eventful October. I put on 383 additional miles locally, using 86 Kwh, at a cost of $8.08. 2.1 cents per mile.
In the summer the charge was 12.3 cents per Kwh. Would have been 2.8 cents per mile.
My Honda Civic was more like 8 cents per mile and gas prices are a bit cheaper right now. I wonder if gas will stay relatively cheap as demand for gas lessens. I wonder if there is a graph that demonstrates this…
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4.5 mi/kWh locally is great! What’s your mileage since you bought it? Ours is 3.1, although we’ve done a lot of interstate driving.
The trip from Kansas was 252 mi @ 3.23 mi/Kwh driving about 75mph
The local trips were 383 mi @ 4.45 mi/Kwh
I don’t know why Tesla is adverse to decimals. I suppose after a year or two I won’t notice as much.
If you are measuring your kWh from your car, you will need to account for charging losses to get a true cost. If that is from a meter isolated to your home charger no adjustment is necessary.
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OK so maybe it’s 10% or 20% higher.
Hard part will be explaining to the oil nations that we don’t need their oil anymore. Talk about your unstable areas.
10% has been suggested as a reasonable, conservative number.
If your car is outside during the winter and requires pre-conditioning before it charges that will drive up overall usage but might not be included in car’s number. You could lessen that by charging immediately after returning home from a trip where battery is already warm.
I believe Level 3 is the most efficient (least charging loss), followed by Level 2 and then Level 1. Until very recently it was thought that Level 3 was worst for battery longevity but this study finds it doesn’t make much difference (compared to Level 2 charging).
Is a typical orange outdoor extension cord sufficient to charge a Tesla outside? I could research it but I’m too lazy at the moment.
Others will be more help, but yeah, it will charge the car.
Internet says that is 3 miles for each hour of charge.
Shouldn’t need to keep it full unless you’re on a road trip with the stops planned.
A Level-two charger will cost some minor bucks to install; major if you have to run the wires somewhere far from circuit box.
If you have a 220V Dryer plug being used (or not, most of the time), you can use that. 50 feet of extension cord will run you about $73 at Home Depot
I already charge my car in the garage and get about 5 miles per hour. But if I take a trip up to see my sister (and then take a 10-day trip to Europe), I didn’t want to use the wrong extension cord and have something melt. Not trying to get to level 2 or 3.
I hate to break it to ya, but that Tesla won’t make it all the way to Europe.
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My car has wireless charging so I should be fine
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Make sure it’s suitable for 15A, the website below will calculate the minimum AWG for a given length of cord. The length of the cord matters a lot, 16awg is fine if it’s a 20’ cord, if you have a 50’ cord it’ll need to be 12awg.