Don’t need a dedicated charger, unless you buy a cheaply-made EV that did not include a cord with a 220V plug.
Just add a 220V outlet to your garage with the proper Amp fuse and wiring.
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Good to know. We’ve got a 220V outlet from an old wall mounted AC that was removed but the outlet left behind we could use.
If you’re doing a bunch of work already, just make sure the amperage (and wiring) is what you want. Maybe it is, and that’s great.
As noted elsewhere, charging at home doesn’t have to be super-fast. It costs the same slow or fast, and you are usually not in that much of a hurry (as opposed to being stuck someplace on the road) that you can plan charging overnight.
FWIW about a year ago, we went to the Ford dealership to look at Mach E’s. Spouse wanted to try one on lease. The 2026s were about to come out and they had a 2025 they really wanted to get rid of.
They made him an insanely good deal on a lease for 36 months, and they threw in a high-speed charger for “free” that we get to keep at the end of the lease. They even paid for an electrician to come out and install it.
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As a bonus, my plug-in hybrid uses the same charging plug. So no adapter.
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Does it have physical buttons or something you are attached to? Get a new TV!
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Depending on your electric plan. Most normal plans this is correct, but time of day can influence, as well as plans that charge by maximum amperage draw.
Whaaaaat?
Well, it is an outdoor TV, with extra filling to keep out water and pests. It is 70+ pounds. And it still works. Tossing it or dealing with FB Marketplace idiots to sell it seems like more trouble.
I still don’t get this. I mean, I get that Toyota is the Superior Car Company that provided the charging cord that can be plugged in to either a 110V or 220V outlet (comes with a switchable part), without making it a selling point.
I mean, I would have walked away, same as I would walk away from an ICE vehicle that had no neck to fill the gas tank.
One of the considerations that a utility has to consider to plan/build is for peak usage. If you set a payment based on max usage during peak hours the consumer is incentivized to load shift to when the grid has excess capacity. The kWh rate is about 5.5c lower than current standard first kWh rate, so if you can time shift your demand, you can save $ if you use more than 180-ish kWh a month (assuming the floor on the load charge is $8 and not $0).
Yep, that’s how our servers work as well. I have to pick peak max power withdrawal and peak internet useage. if our traffic spikes too high, for too long, it’s gonna cost me. We’re just so far below any bottom limit that it’ll never happen, but with say the old AO, it was something to plan for.
In terms of power, our servers are fine, but I have an AI server here that would cost more per month because it draws a reasonable amount of power until it’s doing some calculations - then it goes off the rails. And costs more money.