The 2003 Dodge that I had would flash the service codes in the odometer if you toggled the key from off to accessory 3(?) times. I had an evap system issue that I didn’t really care to fix so I just ignored the light and ocasionally verified the code was the only one throwing an error.
On my 2nd Hyundai and would consider a third. Though annoyed by flaking paint under the hood.
Under the hood? I would literally never find it
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and today I got my car back with the rebuilt engine. woo-hoo for the warranty! the loaner alone was worth a ton!
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Nice that you had the warranty.
Sad that you needed the warranty. I mean, what else is going to break?
So, not happy with the Crutchfield purchase of a digital media receiver of about a year ago. It won’t allow me to search my iPod via remote control. The old one I had did that. Much safer than controlling via the iPod.
Looking now, and I don’t see any that will control the iPod search. iPhone, yeah, they’re all over it. I might have to revert to my CDs.
ETA: Now, can’t find any 6CD Changers anymore.
The other day, i saw a CR-V with a “Type R” badge on the back. Sad.
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Back in college there was a Ford running around town, I cannot remember what model, they added SS badges to it. At least this guy got the make right for the badge.
Headlight stopped working, it’s an aftermarket HID kit. Started trying to diagnose, swapping parts left to right, couldn’t figure it out. Finally took the entire working assembly, swapped the whole thing. Nope. I’m getting 13v at the plug when the switch is on.
The plastic plug failed somehow. A $1 part but I spent over an hour figuring that out. It had 13v but the pins were not lining up somehow.
we have a tail light out. i have changed headlights, but never tail lights. hoping they are easy?
Should be a panel in the trunk or back door.
Did your vehicle notify you? Or did some other driver tell you?
other driver.
I"d say even easier. Some older vehicles, or taillights on pickups, may have screws from the outside. Youtube is your friend on simple things like this.
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This. I’ve never had much trouble changing tail lights. I’d say there’s an 80% chance it’s an 1157 bulb if the car is 5+ years old, that was pretty much the only option for decades. My cars have LEDs now but I bet I still have some spare 1157 bulbs in the toolbox.
I did finally throw out my collection of old glass fuses, I don’t have any cars with those anymore.
Ease of install is severly make & model dependent. I bought a replacement tail light for the Rav4 my kids were driving around, and I found out afterward that getting to the taillight involved taking a crap load of the interior trim off inside the cargo area.
On my F150, it’s a piece of cake with 1 issue. You have to stick your ratchet into a hole that your fingers cannot get into. If your socket falls off the extension, you are going to have a hard time getting your socket back with a magnet on a string, so it’s best to tape the socket onto the socket extension.
All this was talking about replacing the whole assembly, but merely replacing a bulb should be easier, but I agree, yeah find a Youtube video on your exact make & model
Some assemblies are made so you take out the assembly to access/replace the bulb.
Tail light swap was easy. Youtube showed it and it aas every bit as easy as the video suggested
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Replace front bulb from wife’s Lexus.
Not easy at all. Some top plastic piece had to be removed, of course dropped the tool I was using to take it off, then one of the plastic pins.
My old car, when I drop something it goes straight to the ground, as God intended.
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To Vegas and back in my old car. Got it up to 110 on the way there, fastest I’ve ever driven it. I wanted to be able to drive faster in MPH than the temperature in degrees was. On Friday it got up to 105 near Baker. No one around, no cops anywhere. Water gauge went slightly over halfway once. Stopped to get a chocolate shake just before the first big 4000’ climb.
On the way home, no stops, plenty of CHP’s already stopping others, went 77 or so most of the time. Made it home about a half-hour earlier than the drive there. Must have been the shake stop.
Fun thing: at the shake stop, there was a line out the door for the big-ass lottery, and on the CA side of the CA/NV Border, on Friday there was a convenience store with a line WAY out the door, since lottery tix cannot be sold in NV. Not sure who in LV, NV would go 56 miles or so just to buy a lottery ticket or seven. I figure it’s a lot of CA’s who forget to buy one, or seven before they left home.
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Bump.
Scrolling for used Corolla GRs in my area, just 'cause.
$35K for a 2023 with 22K miles.
A Morizo edition in Vegas for $70K. Looks like someone doesn’t want to lose money on their investment-not-a-driving-car.
CTR’s (that’s “Civic Type R”) don’t go below $40K unless six years old (with the bro-spoiler) and 100K miles.
Or, die a little bit and get a hybrid.
Again, I’m driving 5K per year. That’s 200 gallons (old car is barely getting 25MPG) and $1000/year. I save $500 or so doubling my MPG. So, spend $40K to save $10K over the next 10 years to drive 5000 boring miles per year?
Meanwhile, I can (and have) fit me and an inflatable single mattress in the current car so I can go wherever and sleep. Might do that this year on my annual Super Bowl RV Campout, as my friend’s convert-a-table in his RV is not very comfortable.
Old car needs paint or a wrap. That is considerably less expensive, though the original paint is peeling, might take some work before doing either of these options. Car is out in the sun all day (yes, need to make room in the garage, but hard to get two cars and a weightlifting bench in there even if cleaned out), so maybe buy a cover after paint/wrap and plan my driving over consecutive days only (Thursday-Saturday).