I mean, I’m sure the manufacturer knows. But how do i get this info from them? I’m asking because I’m now curious what kind of battery is in my Kia Niro, and quick googling didn’t answer the question.
I’m only paying 30c per Kwh here in Omaha. I was getting 300wh to the mile on the highway driving 78 most of the time. So roughly 3+ cents per mile at home and 10 cents via supercharger
The $0.70 per kWh I mentioned is for non-Teslas. I don’t know what Tesla drivers are paying but I understand it’s considerably cheaper. It’s probably rare that I’ll need a Tesla supercharger but there are some stretches, like the I-90 through Wyoming, where they’ll come in handy.
OK, set it to 90%, as we are taking a small trip today. Was at 52%, but with the new gadget connected to the 220V outlet and the cord snaked through an open door (probably a safety hazard), it was done in 8 hours.
Have 254 miles in it.
Again, the car was programmed for 90% and the 16A limit (again, no idea what breaker I have, nor what kind of wires inside the home), so I don’t see a need for a “charging station” at my house. I’ll get the outlet moved to the garage someday.
We started a road trip yesterday and tried out a few Rivian chargers, which were easy to use with tap and go. Two of them were slightly cheaper than EA, even with EA membership. However, the one in Cheyenne, WY was $0.18 per kwh more than EA. Found a website showing Rivian charger prices (for Rivian and non-Rivian users) -
Teslas have this feature as well, I plug mine in whenever and it kicks off charging at midnight when electrons are very cheap. I don’t know what chargers come with other EVs, the ‘mobile connector’ that came with my Tesla will do up to 32A, or 7.6kW. The Siemens charger I already had installed is a 30A charger and that is plenty for me. Google indicates your Toyota charger also supports up to 30A.
So yeah, that should suffice for most people. I guess if you have a Hummer EV and drive a lot, you might want more amperage, idk.
I still don’t see the point of a home charger if your wires can already handle the amperage.
My current (heh) issue is that the wires in the house that I’m using might not handle the amperage. If I program the car to take in more amps, will it? CAN it? Again, I’m no electrician, and my electrician friend thinks I need more amps, which means installing new wires, which means paying money, as the circuits are nowhere near the garage.
The car filled to 80% (from 52%) in four hours last night. Not likely to plug in again until maybe Saturday (another day trip on Sunday).
Can’t wait to check out my electricity bill.
I think there are some use cases. Maybe 30A isn’t enough for you. I think this is very few cases. Maybe you want to keep one charger in the car so you’re sure you won’t leave it at home when you take a trip. So you want to buy a second one anyway, and if you already need wiring run, maybe the marginal cost of getting 48A is small, so why not?
Me? I had a Volt, which only came with a 110v, 1kW charger. Took about 14 hours to charge.
Yeah, if I decide to get new wiring, I may as well get top wiring.
When you say “charger,” do you mean the cord? If so, then I guess I already have a “charger,” and if the “charger” (the 220V connector) didn’t come with the car, I probably wouldn’t have bought it.
When I say ‘charger,’ I’m basically saying the hardware that starts at the 220v wall outlet and ends where it plugs into the car.
GR Corolla would be sweet. I’m guessing they are as bad as the Civic Type R. Which I would own if dealers weren’t marking them up so much that my Model Y Performance was actually cheaper.
Some people consider the “charger” the thing that converts AC (from house) to DC, which is what your battery receives when it stores the energy. Your car has an on-board charger. Some cars have less capable on-board chargers, so they may not charge fast enough for some use cases. You can have a home charger to do the AC to DC conversion and supply DC to the car instead of relying on the on-board charger. Level 3 chargers are DC chargers, some of which are currently (yep) as high as 350 kW in the US. Your car’s Battery Management System (BMS) limits the amount of DC power your battery can use to charge, so you don’t need to worry about “overpowering” the car when using a fast charger. Some home chargers also have timing/rate/connectivity software that particular vehicles may lack. Some people buy home chargers for that reason.